August 24, 2008
August 22, 2008
The tall ship was there for the tall ship races, but apparently “lives” in Bergen too. The wooden alley is an old part of town called the Bryggen, full of lots of craft shops (e.g., leatherworker, knit sweaters, potters, etc.).
These are from Bergen in Norway (time delay photography, sort of!) The tall skinny buildings along the wharf are the old German merchants’ offices; Bergen was one of 4 key German trading hubs in the early 1800’s.
August 15, 2008
Well, I CAN e-mail photos and if she has time, my mom/marketing manager/administrative assitant will post a few. I’m in England now and having a harder time finding internet access, but if that works, will e-mail her more when I can for posting!
I’m in the Dales at Ilkley, with the moor towering over the stone houses and manors of the town – man, I love it here. People are much more friendly than in Norway — or perhaps I just have a weakness for being called “love,” and everyone says “good morning” and “lovely day, right?”. My room’s over a pub and I had a cider downstairs last night with an old fellow who I chatted away with about (of course) the weather, the train system in the UK vs. the US, Scotland’s rumblings for independence, and travel in general. Fun!
Pedometer: 70 miles, but I start the “real” walking tomorrow. It’s beautiful today, though not supposed to last. That’s okay, I’ll take even a day of blue sky and sun at this point!
Okay, gotta get out of the library and up on that moor. Having a harder time finding i-net access here, so the posts may be farther apart, but I’ll try. Cheerio!
August 13, 2008
A few random answers (thanks for the comments/questions!)
Ray: If there is a Flim to go with the Flam, I haven’t seen it, but I’ll check the map (or perhaps the street performers here in Oslo, who are probably fully acquainted with both.) 😉
Mom: Allen is mostly keeping up with my mileage, although we’re not always covering the SAME mileage; we’ve been spending part of most days going our own ways. Keeping up until today, anyway, when I spent just about all day walking in the rain and he spent most of it reading (he bought a new Dan Brown book, as that Slash book doesn’t hold his interest more than 5 minutes — it’s the same one he had at Xmas.)
Kirsten: I DID eat that brown cheese (gertost or something like that?)! Tastes a little like Velveeta to me. And thanks for the tip on the aquarium, I did go there. They had basket stars, my favorite.
Several: It’s been comfortably cool every day, with showers most days and out-and-out rain on several. But we did have partly sunny yesterday, which was nice. I expected this weather in England later this fall, but not here and not yet!
Rae: The wrap I had was made of tortilla, basically; I think the lefse might be saved for dessert? Allen & I did try some freshly cooked in the demonstration at the folk museum, though — tasty.
Bergen was a treat! We got lucky with a wee bit of sunshine, and we wandered through the Bryggen, which is like the York Shambles in England only made out of wood, all dark alleys and crooked buildings and overhanging second stories dating back several hundred years to Bergen’s glory as a key German merchants’ trading port. Then we toured the tower, which was basically a small castle dating from the 1300s that had its roof and most of its top floor blown off in 1944 when a German munitions boat blew up in the harbor. Saw an old church or two, rode the funicular up the mountain – think trolleys on the steepest slope this side of the ski lift – and enjoyed the great view from the top with a great salmon-and-egg-salad sandwich. Throw in a buzz through the aquarium for me and a buying spree at the mall for Allen, and it was a great day!
If I were doing this again, I’d skip Oslo, or at least spend less time there, and come straight here. Bergen is WAY better. With maybe two more days here, I could take the bus to the abbey ruins and the botanical garden. But we had a brutal red-eye train ride instead. (Lesson learned; I probably won’t do that again. Like trying to sleep on a plane x 2, despite the ear plugs and eye mask they kindly provide.) More rain back here in Oslo on Weds; you’d never know it was August (or maybe this is as good as it gets here?) Wouldn’t mind more of the fjords, but I’m indeed ready to leave Oslo.
Back in a few e-moments to post photos (I think).
August 12, 2008
I will outsmart my Firefox font problem by writing all my blog posts in the word processor first, like I know most “real” bloggers do anyway. I will make some stab at outsmarting my camera (or at least being within a few degrees of its IQ) by.. well, I’ll spare you the gory details since I don’t want to retype my whining about that, just as well that post got deleted, but we’re now in Bergen, which looks really great, so I’ll hope to solve all camera problems and upload some photos from here soon. (I started to upload one or two big ones last night and froze up my blog site, so clearly that is a bad plan. For photos from the very start of our trip, you’ll just have to see them in person later. Sorry. Just go online and look up Flam or fjords and look at their photos for a sense of what we say there!)
<Whine over.> I’ll just try to describe poetically:
Flam was half old-time train station, half wilderness marina, half tourist trap. Sunday gave us showers (from the sky, not the bathroom, we’ve had those all along, though we’re not always sure how to turn them on) and Monday basically rained all day, so we didn’t spend as much time outside as I would have liked. The fjord is stunning, even shrouded in mist. It’s hard for me not to look at these massifs and think that the land itself is God. Our boat ride today was chilly and damp, but I sat out back in my raincoat for most of it to soak in the impassive and patient glory, and I wish I had counted the waterfalls, because we must have passed, oh…40? Tiny white threads from peak tops to sea, huge gushers billowing spray, ribbons that frayed and branched and rejoined, peekaboo falls tucked in crevasses… I had a hike to a nearby biggish waterfall this morning that was steep and muddy but I really enjoyed it. Ate wild raspberries on the way and saw three nearly new-born lambs. Those delights notwithstanding, I can see why the vikings had to go raiding to make ends meet; this is a harsh and stingy corner of earth, and even with the few patches of nonvertical land in fields, it’s hard to see how 2+ months of summer could possibly had yielded a living for anyone back in the day, even if they ate plenty of fish. (Hard to fish when the sea is frozen, I’m guessing.)
Okay, I could go on for pages but I won’t. Up to 37 miles on the pedometer. Going to bed, but will explore Bergen tomorrow and try to report on what looks like a fab town when I can!
August 11, 2008
＜Ｗｅ’ｒｅ ｓｏｒｒｙ， ｂｕｔ ｔｈｅ ｕｓｅｒ ｏｆ ｔｈｉｓ ｂｌｏｇ ｉｓ ｈａｖｉｎｇ ｔｅｃｈｎｉｃａｌ ｄｉｆｆｉｃｕｌｔｉｅｓ． Ｐｌｅａｓｅ ｔｕｎｅ ｉｎ ａｇａｉｎ ｌａｔｅｒ， ｗｈｅｎ ｐｅｒｈａｐｓ ｓｈｅ ｗｉｌｌ ｓｔｏｐ ｄｅｌｅｔｉｎｇ ｔｈｉｎｇｓ， ｈｉｔｔｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ｗｒｏｎｇ ｋｅｙ， ａｎｄ ｌｏｓｉｎｇ ｗａｒｓ ｏｆ ｗｉｔ ｗｉｔｈ ｈｅｒ ｃａｍｅｒａ． Ｙｏｕｒ ｐａｔｒｏｎａｇｅ ｉｓ ａｐｐｒｅｃｉａｔｅｄ．＞
Boy, I just can’t get over prices here. The best illustration I’ve found so far: I’ve repeatedly paid $7 for a (small!) cup of tea, and Big Macs (which I have NOT paid for) cost $14. The rest of my destinations are going to look relatively cheap!