Farwalking

August 12, 2008

Okay, here’s the plan…

Filed under: Norway — sensel @ 12:01 am

I will outsmart my Firefox font problem by writing all my blog posts in the word processor first, like I know most “real” bloggers do anyway. I will make some stab at outsmarting my camera (or at least being within a few degrees of its IQ) by.. well, I’ll spare you the gory details since I don’t want to retype my whining about that, just as well that post got deleted, but we’re now in Bergen, which looks really great, so I’ll hope to solve all camera problems and upload some photos from here soon. (I started to upload one or two big ones last night and froze up my blog site, so clearly that is a bad plan. For photos from the very start of our trip, you’ll just have to see them in person later. Sorry. Just go online and look up Flam or fjords and look at their photos for a sense of what we say there!)

<Whine over.> I’ll just try to describe poetically:

Flam was half old-time train station, half wilderness marina, half tourist trap. Sunday gave us showers (from the sky, not the bathroom, we’ve had those all along, though we’re not always sure how to turn them on) and Monday basically rained all day, so we didn’t spend as much time outside as I would have liked. The fjord is stunning, even shrouded in mist. It’s hard for me not to look at these massifs and think that the land itself is God. Our boat ride today was chilly and damp, but I sat out back in my raincoat for most of it to soak in the impassive and patient glory, and I wish I had counted the waterfalls, because we must have passed, oh…40? Tiny white threads from peak tops to sea, huge gushers billowing spray, ribbons that frayed and branched and rejoined, peekaboo falls tucked in crevasses… I had a hike to a nearby biggish waterfall this morning that was steep and muddy but I really enjoyed it. Ate wild raspberries on the way and saw three nearly new-born lambs. Those delights notwithstanding, I can see why the vikings had to go raiding to make ends meet; this is a harsh and stingy corner of earth, and even with the few patches of nonvertical land in fields, it’s hard to see how 2+ months of summer could possibly had yielded a living for anyone back in the day, even if they ate plenty of fish. (Hard to fish when the sea is frozen, I’m guessing.)

Okay, I could go on for pages but I won’t. Up to 37 miles on the pedometer. Going to bed, but will explore Bergen tomorrow and try to report on what looks like a fab town when I can!

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